Women’s and girls’ wear: dresses, jumper/cardigan suits, blouses, skirts and slacks
Women’s and Maids’ [US=misses', not servants'] Civilian Clothing and Girls’ Civilian Clothing (in respect of which Purchase Tax is Chargeable):
Dresses.
Not to have:
- more than 2 pockets,
- more than 5 buttons and 5 buttonholes for any openings (other than cuff openings) except in coat-frocks or button-through dresses, where buttons may be placed along the openings at intervals of not less than 4″.
- more than 1 button and 1 buttonhole on each sleeve.
- more than 6 seams in the skirt of a woollen dress or more than 7 seams in the skirt of a non-woollen dress.
- in relation to dresses of sizes of up to 44″ hip, any pleating or any pleats, other than 2 inverted pleats or 2 box pleats, or 4 knife pleats (the underlap of each side of any pleat not to exceed 7″ when fully extended).
- in relation to dresses of hip sizes 44″ and over, any pleating or any pleats, other than 4 inverted pleats or 4 box pleats, or 6 knife pleats (the underlap of each side of any pleat not to exceed 7″ when fully extended).
- fold tucks except to give necessary fullness and the total stitching to be used for the purpose of making such fold tucks shall not exceed 50″.
- more than one name tab and one drop ticket, in addition to the size tab and utility label.
- any pin-tucking except that which consists of material doubled over on itself to form a tuck not exceeding 1/16th of an inch in depth, not embodying any extraneous material [i.e. cording], and which is stitched with a single line of stitching.
- more than 160″ total length of pin tucking.
- more than 160″ total length of machine stitching, being hem-stitching, faggot stitching, or bar-stitching, and then only to be used (a) for the purpose of attaching a hem to a garment or (b) as picot-edging to form the edge of a garment.
- ornamental stitching (which shall include any stitching which is not used for constructional purposes) apart from plain stitching to strengthen collar and bodice front opening.
- ruching or gauging except to give necessary fullness.
- ruching or gauging in excess of 5 rows in parallel.
- embroidery (hand or machine), applique, applique work, applique embroidery, braid, quilting (including puffing and matelasse), beading, sequins, rouleaux work (except for one row as a finish for the neck or sleeves), drawn thread work, galloons, or lace or lace-net trimmings.
- tiered skirts.
- external epaulets.
- capes (fixed or detachable).
- turn-back cuffs.
- imitation pockets.
- buttons on pockets.
- buttons for the purposes of ornament.
- slide fasteners [zippers].
- full length sleeves of a width (circumference) at the wrist exceeding 14″.
Depth of collar not to exceed 5″. Width of fabric belts not to exceed 2″. Depth of hem to skirt not to exceed 2″. No tunic dresses to be made. No lace or lace net dresses to be made [these fabrics were unrationed].
Jumper suits, cardigan suits and cardigan-jumper suits, made from woven cloth or knitted fabric.
Not to have:
- more than 2 pockets.
- pockets on the skirt.
- more than 8 buttons and buttonholes.
- more than 6 seams in a woollen skirt or more than 7 seams in a non-woollen skirt.
- any pleating or any pleats, other than 2 inverted pleats or 2 box pleats, or 4 knife pleats (the underlap of each side of any pleat not to exceed 7″ when fully extended).
- fold tucks except to give necessary fullness and the total stitching to be used for the purpose of making such fold tucks shall not exceed 50″.
- more than one name tab and one drop ticket, in addition to the size tab and utility label.
- any pin-tucking except that which consists of material doubled over on itself to form a tuck not exceeding 1/16th of an inch in depth, not embodying any extraneous material [i.e. cording], and which is stitched with a single line of stitching.
- more than 160″ total length of pin tucking.
- more than 160″ total length of machine stitching, being hem-stitching, faggot stitching, or bar-stitching, and then only to be used (a) for the purpose of attaching a hem to a garment or (b) as picot-edging to form the edge of a garment.
- ornamental stitching (which shall include any stitching which is not used for constructional purposes) apart from plain stitching to strengthen collar and bodice front opening.
- ruching or gauging except to give necessary fullness.
- ruching or gauging in excess of 5 rows in parallel.
- embroidery (hand or machine), applique, applique work, applique embroidery, braid, quilting (including puffing and matelasse), beading, sequins, rouleaux work (except for one row as a finish for the neck or sleeves), drawn thread work, galloons, or lace or lace-net trimmings.
- external epaulets.
- capes (fixed or detachable).
- turn-back cuffs.
- imitation pockets.
- buttons on pockets.
- buttons for the purposes of ornament.
- slide fasteners [zippers].
- full length sleeves of a width (circumference) at the wrist exceeding 14″.
Depth of collar not to exceed 5″. Width of fabric belts not to exceed 2″. Length of cardigan or cardigan-jumper not to exceed 28″.
Blouses.
Not to have:
- more than 1 pocket.
- more than 7 buttons and 7 buttonholes when made with full length sleeves or more than 5 buttons and 5 buttonholes when made with sleeves other than full length sleeves.
- more than 5″ total extension of pleating.
- more than one name tab and one drop ticket in addition to the size tab and utility label.
- any pin-tucking except that which consists of material doubled over on itself to form a tuck not exceeding 1/16th of an inch in depth, not embodying any extraneous material [i.e. cording], and which is stitched with a single line of stitching.
- more than 160″ total length of pin tucking.
- more than 160″ total length of machine stitching, being hem-stitching, faggot stitching, or bar-stitching, and then only to be used (a) for the purpose of attaching a hem to a garment or (b) as picot-edging to form the edge of a garment.
- ornamental stitching (which shall include any stitching which is not used for constructional purposes) apart from plain stitching to strengthen collar and bodice front opening.
- ruching or gauging except to give necessary fullness.
- ruching or gauging in excess of 5 rows in parallel.
- fold tucks except to give necessary fullness and the total stitching to be used for the purpose of making such fold tucks shall not exceed 50″.
- embroidery (hand or machine), applique, applique work, applique embroidery, braid, quilting (including puffing and matelasse), beading, sequins, rouleaux work (except for one row as a finish for the neck or sleeves), drawn thread work, galloons, or lace or lace-net trimmings.
- turn-back cuffs.
- imitation pockets.
- buttons on pockets.
- buttons for the purposes of ornament.
- slide fasteners [zippers].
- full length sleeves of a width (circumference) at the wrist exceeding 14″.
Depth of collar not to exceed 5″. No lace or lace net blouses to be made [these fabrics were unrationed].
Skirt.
Not to have:
- more than 1 pocket.
- more than 3 buttons.
- more than 2 inverted or box pleats, or 4 knife pleats, pressed or unpressed (underlap of each side of any pleat not to exceed 7″ when fully extended).
- more than 6 seams.
- more than 2 rows of additional stitching to reinforce seams.
- ornamental stitching except on pocket or at waist or hem (such ornamental stitching in each case not to exceed 4 rows).
- braid, embroidery, applique or ornamental quilting.
- pin or other ornamental tucking.
- accordion or all round pleating.
- pleats or bellows on pockets.
- imitation pockets.
- imitation buttonholes.
- flares [godets?].
- fur, fur-fabric, velvet, velveteen, silk, rayon or leather trimmings.
- bib or brace suspenders.
- slide fasteners [zippers].
- full length sleeves of a width (circumference) at the wrist exceeding 14″.
Hem not to be more than 2″ deep.
Slacks.
To have plain trouser bottoms with a maximum width (circumference) of 21″ at the bottom. Not to have:
- more than 6 buttons and 6 buttonholes.
- more than 2 pockets.
- pocket flaps.
- slant pockets.
- permanent turn-ups.
- pleats.
- imitation buttonholes.
- side straps or back strap.
- detachable belt.
- elastic in waistband.
- rubber or fabric device (other than belt loops) for maintaining slacks in position.
- stitched crease.
- raised seams.
- bib or brace suspension.
- slide fasteners.
19 Comments
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I really appreciate that you posted these regulations on the internet. I have been working on a theme for my next art show and women’s garments from the 40′s is my main focus. I remember coming across your blog at the beginning of my research and I am glad that I found it once again. I have also had trouble finding the exact regulations and was really excited to find out that you had access to this information. It will help me create drawings that are describing these regulations. Thank you very much for posting them!
Wow, this is great info! Where did you find this perchance? I’m channelling the 1940′s diy make do and mend mentality for some uni work that I’m doing on sustainability in knitwear. Any sources you recommend would be so amazing! Thanks, love your blog!
Wow – is there anything they didn’t think of? I like to think (though I know it’s entirely unrealistic – there would have been others doing the actual writing) of MPs going home and quizzing their wives/daughters on things such as pin-tucks, embroidery, and lace. A whole new world opened up! Pity it’s so terribly unlikely…
Thanks so much for doing all the work to find these details – not just in this post but in your blog in general. Not only is ‘fashion on the ration’ an awesome idea stylistically, it’s the perfect mix of clothes and history! I’m learning so much about wartime England. I’m also looking forward to using your insiders-info on going vintage in London – I’ll be there this summer
I think i read here or somewhere that the requirements were drawn up by some bureaucrats in collusion with some home economists to learn what could realistically be cut out without exposing to much. LOL
You helped me put some pieces together of a puzzle that’s been playing in my mind for a while. http://3hourspast.blogspot.com/2010/05/great-leap-backwards-vintage-home.html This one is written to you mostly, but I thought a lengthy reply would be better posted on my own blog.
5 Buttons on a tuck in blouse? Are they joking? 4″ apart? I’m pretty tempted to use this as part of my designing when I’m working with 40′s patterns…
I could well imagine the bespoke tailors would indeed kick up a fuss…
This is really interesting, and explains somewhat the disturbing difference between late 30′s and early 40′s sewing patterns…. hmmm…
Susannah, thank you so much for posting this. I’ve actually been doing some research about this myself, in relation to the reactions of both women’s and men’s groups against Dior in the late 40s, and it is very interesting to learn more about the context in which those protests occurred. Many thanks to you for unearthing this!
Wow, this is really interesting! It makes me wonder about any other clothing restrictions in Europe at the time.
Wow, I’m so excited you got hold of these at last! Have you found any restrictions on home sewing (patterns/materials etc)?
No direct legal restrictions were applied to those sewing at home in the UK, but clothing and fabric rationing indirectly restricted their options. Also, most women followed the latest style lines more closely than they do now, so home patterns tended to stick pretty close to what was being sold in the shops. There was no reason why the resourceful home needlewoman shouldn’t embellish and remake her plain shop-bought clothes or jazz up an austerity pattern, though, and the women’s magazines I’ve read from the period are peppered with hopeful little tips for doing this.
Would patterns themselves have had to follow austerity restrictions? I know that I read recently that US patterns sold in Canada often had longer views crossed out as “against restrictions”. I would hope no-one ever thought they should actually go after individuals though — I have images of reverse hemline tests!
The government’s intention was to prevent labor and materials from being diverted to the civilian clothing industry. On the other hand, home seamstresses could make whatever they wanted if they could find the fabric and time. I read a great account of a girl in desperate straits whose sister, a nurse, finally gave her a hospital sheet. She dyed the sheet, cut a hole for her head, fastened it with a belt and brooch and went off to the ball in a flowing, decidedly non-austere Grecian-style gown.
Some of the wartime British patterns I have diverge from the austerity restrictions in minor respects, but they include a warning stamped on the envelope that professional dressmakers had to comply with the Civilian Clothing Restrictions Orders — which implies that people sewing the patterns for private use could make up their dresses according to the pattern, or in any way they liked.
Fascinating! Thanks for researching!
this is truly fascinating. i’m so jealous that you have access to those archives – they must be full of interesting information (tied up in dry legislative language no doubt, but interesting nonetheless!). thanks for sharing!
Wow, no zippers and only one skirt pocket… Thanks for sharing the specifics with all of us.
wow that IS austere. is that saying that you weren’t allowed to have those cute pin tucks on the skirt? or was that not a problem for homemade?
Well, with homemade, theoretically you could do whatever you wanted, although you’d be limited by your (rationed) fabric supply. But the prohibition on pintucks, where it isn’t total, only excludes corded pintucks — very narrow pintucks, and not too many of them, were still okay.
Thanks, I didn’t catch that part. sure hate to do without one of the best parts of your dress would you? LOL Kitty