Confession/revelation: my Simplicity curse
It’s official: I AM AN IDIOT.
I spent wasted most of today taking another stab at making a short-sleeved blouse out of a man’s shirt. The pattern: Simplicity 3638, view 2. The shirt: a rather nice Thin Red Line number of James’s in white with blue pinstripes. I had it all planned out — red piping along the yoke and collar edge, and facings etc. in a lovely blue and white Liberty floral remnant that toned perfectly with and softened the mannish pinstripes. I’m not sure what I was hoping to prove, except that after investing 1000+ pounds and hours, I do in fact possess basic sewing and alteration skills.
I failed spectacularly… again. The pattern seemed to be a good size and a half smaller than marked. The neckline needed cutting down by 2 inches in order not to strangle me. The bodice pulled every which way. The collar drafting was just wacky. Finally my patience ran out. I stuffed the blouse into the box with the rest of the Pile of Shame, tearfully apologized to James for the needless slaughter of an innocent shirt and fixed myself a large G&T. Why do I do these things to myself? Why??
Then, if only to persuade myself that my love of sewing wasn’t totally unrequited, I pulled myself together and decided to move on. I opened up a Bestway dress pattern I’d been meaning to start on, ironed it flat, traced it off and began to put together the bodice muslin. And then something wonderful started to happen.
The bodice fitted me nicely right away, requiring only a few minor tweaks. Bewildered, but with dawning hope, I pressed on. The armholes fitted without gaping. The back hugged my slightly rounded shoulders lovingly. And the shawl collar, the one construction feature even an overpriced London College of Fashion short course couldn’t teach me, came together just like Vogue Sewing said it would. For the first time in months, it felt like my hard-won sewing skills were actually working, rather than disappearing into a mystifying void between my intentions for a project and the finished product. Hey! Sewing was fun again!
At that moment I had a revelation as liberating as the day I decided to stop dating unsatisfactory men. Then as now, all my failures had had one thing in common. In love, it was my own lousy choices. In sewing, it was Simplicity. The “simple” dress whose bodice had to be hacked and re-hacked until it was practically shredded? Simplicity. The shirtwaist dress that came out a size and a half larger than marked? Simplicity. In fact, nearly every vintage pattern I’ve attempted has been by Simplicity. Does this explain how weirdly, inexplicably frustrating I’ve found my attempts at vintage sewing — the myriad major alterations needed, the bizarre hit-and-miss fit, the way the competent construction of even simple design features has slipped through my fingers like smoke? Maybe. I’m certainly looking forward to testing my theory.
Starting now, I’m purging my stash of Simplicity patterns and starting over with vintage patterns by other companies — any other company. I’m hoping this will make sewing a pleasure again, instead of a soul-draining struggle against an invisible enemy. I’m hoping I’ll start to see the quality of my finished products improve. And I’m hoping, one day, to be able to “throw together” a project like Mena of the Sew Weekly, whose average six-hour dress looks as impossible to me at present as a four-minute mile.
Begone, foul sewing demons, from this place of craft! I cast thee out!
Actual sewing outfit may vary.
Screw Simplicity! Who needs ‘em, not us!!!!!
oh dear. It sounds like you need to make a quick knit top to get you out of your rut (it is universally known amongst sewers that “quick knit top” is the cure for what ails you. for real!).
And if I were you, I”d swear off Simplicity full stop. I’ve had way, WAY too many modern Simplicity patterns with inches too much ease. Life’s too short to fart around with fitting issues that big. Go for a nice Burda pattern – they fit properly, honest.
My condolances on the blouse! It’s so frustrating when everything just doesn’t work! My last sewing day went that way also. I had a perfectly fitted toille, cut out another I could cut and alter, and it just didn’t fit. I’m starting to wonder if I can sew at all… One things’s for sure, I’m taking a sewing class this fall! (I’m home-learned in sewing).
About Sipmlicity, I’ve only tried the skirt part of a vintage Simplicity pattern, and that worked like magic. However, the problems usually lies in the bodice… As some others here have said: perhaps these patterns are just not made for your body-type? Bodyshapes varies endlessly, it would be impossible for a pattern to fit everybody (even everybody that had the same size).
Good luck on the re-stashing, I hope you’ll find a pattern sompany that works for you!
Susannah, I’m with you. Let’s call it a group effort and commit to A Year (or a life) Without Simplicity. I know it feels silly to say, “It’s not me, it’s the pattern”…but sometimes it really is, you know? I should have taken my grandmother’s advice about Simplicity long ago and saved myself a lot of money and time!
There is nothing more frustrating than a pattern not working when it should! I sewed up a gorgeous dress yesterday form a tried and tested pattern and it just doens’t fit. I did alter the waistband which is where the problems began though. I find it’s best to walk away from these issues and come back to them when you don’t feel quite so resentful towards them!
Good for you for identifying that it’s probably the make that is the issue. I don’t think I would have realised that in a million years.
That’s my story and I’m sticking to it! Either I blame Simplicity or I just accept that I cannot sew.
Hi,
I have never used a vintage pattern, cos I’m just not the same shape they were then!! But I do sympathise, I have been sewing for years (so maybe my early patterns were vintage!!) and have found that different brands do fit better than others!! I have also made things for other people and have found that Vogue patterns usually are very reliable, and are usually the measurements they say they are, whatever size you are using! Which isn’t to say I don’t use other brands I’m just a bit more careful checking the measurements on the paper pattern before I cut the fabric, but I learn that the hard way!!!
Condolences on the blouse/shirt. Just so readers don’t get scared of Simplicity, I used Simplicity exclusively for my first ten sewing years. My mom used them.
I think that some people have Simplicity bodies and some people have bodies that fit a different company with little problems. If you can’t wear simplicity maybe you can wear vogue, or maybe Butterick. Keep your chin up and try somewhere else. they all draft very similar patterns every year and when you find something attractive in one brand you’ll find a similar dress or blouse in your favorite company too. it’s just a matter of finding it.
Susannah,
If I may suggest a different approach you may find that your Simplicity patterns can work for you.
When I was writing my book “How to Make Sewing Patterns” back in the 70s ( I know you have it as you mentioned it previously) I wanted to cover all the classic pattern styles. So I bought a variety of commercial patterns and the fitting shells from the same companies. I then placed a given design such as a raglan sleeve on top of the basic fitting shell and said “what did they do to create this design?”
When you understand what the designer did to create the design you can then take the design concept from the commercial pattern and apply it to a sloper that fits you and make the same adjustments.
We were recently discussing in my group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/How-to-Make-Sewing-Patterns/ the frustration of working with commercial patterns. My comment is that when you try to create clothes from commercial patterns you are spending all your time correcting the fit. When you work from the basic custom fit slopers you are spending all your time creating beautiful garments. I heard from many people that this was a spot on observation.
After all Mother Nature never repeats the same shape twice. How can any company mass produce garments or patterns that will truly fit you?
Best,
Don McCunn
On a Mission to Covert People from Correcting to Creating!
I have to admit, I haven’t had too many problems with Simplicity patterns, but the ones I have used successfully have been from the mid to late 30s, making me think that something may have changed in the 40s? Although, to be honest: I do tend towards having to refit things quite a bit (which is why when in doubt, I whip up a muslin mockup), if nothing else because how I like things to fit (closely) is not always in tune with the vintage fit model (which can be a bit too conservative for modern wear). However, that being said, there is a reason I stay away from modern Simplicity patterns: I have had more failed projects from those than I care to think about! So it would follow that quite possibly the vintage ones could be plagued with a similar problem… My favorite vintage patterns to sew with are, 9 times out of 10, Hollywood, Dubarry and 40s McCall–I find those are the more successful ones in my stash.
I also wanted to say BRAVO! for coming to this revelation with your sewing. I think it’s best to sew smarter–meaning to know when something isn’t working and move on–than just keep plugging away and frustrate the living heck out of yourself.
♥ Casey
blog | elegantmusings.com
Thanks for the tips — I’m facing a need to de-stash and re-stash with patterns from different companies, and I’ve been wondering which companies to try. Hollywood and DuBarry in particular had some knockout designs in the 1940s.
Actually, my theory falls flat as I see you’ve also grappled with 60s Simplicity. Though, maybe their good pattern cutter had retired by then… I have one UFO at the moment – a 60s Simplicity dress the bodice of which makes me look like an overly chesty hunchback. Lumpy and absolutely hideous up top, I think I can salvage the skirt…
How frustrating for you. My experience of Simplicity seems very different. I’ve sewn quite a few of their vintage patterns and to date (touch wood; hope this doesn’t jinx it!), I’ve found them pretty reliable, with only very minor alterations needed. My patterns tend to be late 40s/ early 50s though, so I’m wondering whether your problems might be related to the period – as in their best pattern cutter(s) might have found themselves occupied elsewhere by the war effort, hence the lack of accuracy in those WWII pattern measurements as less experienced others had to step in!
Maybe Simplicity patterns work for other people and I’ve just picked a few losers. Maybe I’m actually no good at sewing. Only experimentation will tell!
You know, a lot of burda patterns lately have a vintage feel to them that is uncanny. I can’t find vintage patterns at all in this country (Greece), so I have to manage with modern patterns and drafting books. Mix them all together and you get the look you want. Of course in my case I am only learning how to sew, but I have a lot of ambition.
Anyway, my point is that you could use modern patterns as well, that have the same cut as vintage ones, and maybe alter them a bit. That way you don’t have to worry about all those difficulties. Of course you get a new set of problems, but look at the advantages: vintage but still modern. Those vintage girls were very fashionable back then, why lose that today? As for all the fitting and pattern altering problems, sewing is trouble anyway.
Great blog by the way. It’s my dream thing to do, make my own wardrobe with a wartime feel to it. I think that the early 70s patterns have that 40s look somehow. Am I wrong?
Cheers
The 1970s was all about mixing and matching looks from former eras, and 1970s patterns can be a great way to get a more modern-looking take on a vintage era — I see quite a few “1970s does 1940s” blouses etc. And I’m all for the modern vintage look rather than strict authenticity, which doesn’t always work, as a lot of 1940s movie costumes make clear.
However, one interesting thing about sewing from vintage patterns is that it’s a way of almost literally reconstructing history and observing the similarities and differences between them and modern patterns, clothing and construction techniques.
Hmmm…. now that I think about it the jumper that I made was a Simplicity pattern. And I am still confounded as to what actually went wrong. Some of it was me but I have never been so confused in my life.
I am sorry it didn’t work out. The illustration looks fab and it sounded just lovely. Glad you got a dress in the end though.
And Mena is amazing. I could never be that fast.
Keep going! You can do it! (and I have seen turban videos everywhere since you posted one)
Put the comment under the wrong post… I agree: Simplicity is unusable. Decided this many years ago, and I haven’t seen any evidence to change my mind since.