The art of staying warm in Britain
Listen, I know from cold. I grew up in northern New York, a region that got so much snow we didn’t see the ground from November to April and where the temperature would regularly hit -40° for a week on end. Later I lived in Toronto, where winter meant clambering through hip-high (or higher) snowdrifts to get on the streetcar.
Photo by Christine Kelly.
But that, in retrospect, was child’s play. In neither of those places was I ever cold as often or for as long as in the UK, where staying warm takes advanced skillz.
Why is it so hard to keep warm here? The main problem with British cold is that it’s a damp cold — persistent, penetrating and demoralizing. Ordinary layering is no proof against damp; it has a way of seeping straight through clothes and into your bones.
Damp is deceptive. It makes the climate feel much colder than a mere glance at the thermometer would seem to indicate. It’s perfectly understandable to bundle up in down parkas, wooly hats, gloves and scarves when the temperature stands at -15°C, but you feel like an idiot doing it when it’s +15°C and the crocuses are blooming. So off you go in your thin spring jacket and by the time you reach work your nails have turned blue. Whoops.
Cold often catches you off-guard here. Central heating, double-glazing and insulation are not universal, so unexpected drafts and chilliness are normal. Plus, even summer nights can be disproportionately chilly, and temperatures year-round can fluctuate dramatically in the course of a few hours. You never know what the weather will do from hour to hour, let alone week to week. Woe betide the newcomer who steps forth on a June afternoon in nothing more than a fluttery sundress — she’s likely to be whimpering with incipient hypothermia come evening. And let’s not talk about waiting at bus stops.
To complicate matters, the Brits aren’t particularly good at managing their core temperatures either. Both my present boyfriend and my ex reproach me with pointing out how cold their country is, as though it would never have bothered them if I hadn’t brought it up. To be fair, I think that might actually be true. Natives of this chilly isle mostly cope with the cold by employing that great British panacea, denial. T.D. Wilson argues in Strangers to Ourselves: Discovering the Adaptive Unconscious that cultural programming (“Your wedding day is the happiest day of your life”, “Nice girls don’t get angry”) can actually override our perceptions and feelings about what is happening to and within us. British cultural programming has a lot to say about the climate. Standard dogmas seem to include “It’s summer, so it’s warm”, “If I’m wearing a sweater/coat, I must be warm enough” and “It can’t be that cold if there isn’t any snow”.
And a day at the beach is lovely!
These shared beliefs are so strong I’m fairly sure a lot of people here don’t even realize when they’re cold or uncomfortable. The Bloke certainly didn’t realize until he bought himself a thick, insulated peacoat from J. Crew that no other winter coat he’d owned before had actually kept him warm. Besides, putting up with discomfort is more British than doing anything about it. (Actual phone conversation — James: “The flat is freezing. I’m sitting here shivering.” Me: “Well, have you turned on the heat? Put on your thick sweater? Wrapped yourself in a blanket?” James: “…no…”)
In fact, I’d go so far as to say that being unprepared for the weather is as British as Terry Wogan and the last night at the Proms. Schools still send small children forth on a winter’s day dressed in shorts and knee socks. Girls in the north of England are legendary for hitting the town in winter in nothing but a minidress and strappy sandals. A rainy day will reveal how many Londoners don’t carry umbrellas. And let’s not forget Scott of the Antarctic.
As Stephanie says, many Brits seem to dress for a fantasy climate rather than the one they actually live in. Unfortunately the wishful wardrobe doesn’t work for me, so I’ve had to spend years learning to cope with the unique brand of cold in which Britain specializes. These are my main tactics:
Choosing the right fibers. Wool is the answer. Wool, wool and more wool. It keeps you warm even when wet, which is paramount in a damp climate. Surprisingly, considering that Britain’s wealth owes so much to the wool trade, that it still exports plenty of high-quality wool to the US and Japan and that the country is full of sheep, it can be difficult to source good wool here. Which is why I often have to resort to…
Importing wool from abroad. Oh, how I love my wool-double-cloth-with-Thinsulate American coat. And my New Zealand merino base layers. And my Italian wool-and-silk thermal camisoles. And my German wool tights. And my Italian wool stockings. And my French wool beret. And so on. To be fair, I also swear by my thrifted Scottish cashmere sweaters and Hebridean tweed, so there’s that.
But the problem is that I can’t just pile on the scarves and parkas while everyone else is wandering around in short-sleeved cotton blouses and skirts. So I keep warm while blending in by…
Using hidden insulation. Work shirts are so thin these days that unless you like showing the world your bra, a camisole is a good idea anyway. So why not make it thermal? Bella di Notte wool-and-silk thermals are warm and pretty. Real wool tights are another one of my secret weapons — wool tights under a slip and wool skirt are warmer even than long underwear and jeans. And a linen blouse under a sweater (linen is another wonderful damp deflector) is heavenly.
Do you have a secret weapon against the cold? I’d love to hear your top tips on staying snug, smug and cozy!
Hello, it is a terrific write-up, and terrific thought.
wow – lots of comments!
I am reminded of a book I once skimmed, on the art of surviving London if you are French. It mentioned that a French person could spot another French person by the fact that they were both wearing PROPER coats, rather than pretending that it wasn’t really cold enough for such garments.
Oh, gold. I would love to know the title if you can remember it.
Oh can I relate to your post! I grew up in Winnipeg, a city cold enough to envy Toronto’s weather, where the snow starts to fall in mid-October, and the last blizzard of the season can hit in the middle of May, where -20C (-4F) is considered to be a warm winter day.
My parents immigrated from Belfast just before I was born and it was years before they really lost their “it’s not really cold if you don’t think about it” mentality. I have some very vivid memories of walking to school in the morning wearing a skirt and tights under my snow pants, stopping every few minutes to rub the feeling back into my thighs.
I thought that this was a weird quirk of my parents, or maybe the Irish, I hadn’t realized that the entire country labours under the delusion that feeling cold is a sign of personal weakness. I don’t know how many times my dad would tell me “it’ll make you stronger” and all I could think was “no, really Dad, I spent so much energy battling hypothermia at recess that I can’t do anything right now other than sleep.” It’s always really funny to watch the reactions of family members the first time they experience a real Canadian winter, especially the ones who’ve been most vocal about the stiff upper lip thing.
As for tips on keeping warm, we don’t have to deal with the damp so much here. As is frequently repeated throughout the winter in Winnipeg, “at least it’s a dry cold.” But my tips from dealing with unpredictable Prairie springs is to layer in as many different ways you can think of. I almost always wear two pairs of socks most of the year, 2 pairs of thin socks are way warmer than one thick pair. A camisole, blouse or work shirt and cardigan ensemble is warmer than a thick thermal shirt. A scarf around your neck will probably keep you warmer than a thin jacket. Wear thin thermal shorts under skirts, over tights. Think loft instead of bulk, warmth is kept in by air pockets, so a heavy parka isn’t necessarily going to keep you warmer than a cardigan and nice, large stole on top. The purpose of layers is not just to be able to shed them quickly, but also to trap thin layers of air, so carry around an extra layer or two, in the form of shawls or stoles, whenever you go out.
Good luck on keeping warm this winter!
This comment is made of awesome. Good to hear a ‘pegger weigh in!
Damart. Never leave home without it.
I hear you! I grew up in Pennsylvania but there, you go from central heated house to central heated car to central heated office (replace with “air conditioned” for summer). None of this walking 35 minutes to work each day or waiting for 20 minutes at an unsheltered bus stop business.
I’m totally with you on the wool, but I also adore silk – you’d think that because it’s so thin, it couldn’t possibly be warm, but oh, silk is a tricksy one! It feels warm in winter and cool in summer, and it’s relatively cheap (£7-8/m on Goldhawk Road) if you sew to whip up a few blouses for layering under sweaters.
That, and the silk LL Bean long johns my mom buys me for Christmas every year. I wear them pretty much constantly from Nov-March.
Hi from PA Melissa,
unfortunately we don’t have central heating, we heat with Electric and kerosene space heaters depending on the wind. if it’s high or the cold is intense we use both. LOL
I’ve been interested in the silk long johns for quite a while but they don’t come in my size. I did buy some silk brocade a while back, I’ve been thinking of making it into a full length slip and some knickers. LOL now those might need elastic in the knees.
Brocade knickers! Now that’s swanky!
Interesting. I’d never given a thought to silk blouses before as I’d always written them off as too flimsy for warmth and a pain to wash, but I may have to rethink. I have some 40s blouse patterns that would drape wonderfully in silk, and I agree — silk prices on Goldhawk Road are impossible to resist.
I know, it’s my personal claim to fame. but remember it was maybe 7000 feet so not unheard of. back side of Pikes peak. I can even name the year, 1971.
As for brocade knickers, I bought the stuff to make a MOB dress for my daughter’s wedding, but when I saw it in natural light I decided it was to FLORID for my coloring. so I’ve been holding it for ten years trying to decide what I should use it for. It’s actually cut up to make into a Kimono, but I’m debating so it hasn’t been made up yet. I do wonder if brocade knickers isn’t a bit of a stretch but I only paid $6.00 a yard for it so it wasn’t EXPENSIVE. or anything. I wish I could get more. I’d love to have a jade color. esp for undies. LOL
LOL now YOU sound like when I lived in Colorado. the mountains are very dry but the weather was so changeable that we had a blizzard while camping in the mountains on June 29th and my brother had to get out and help dad put the chains on the car while wearing nothing warmer than shirt sleeves. and short ones at that.
Wow. Snow in June? My personal best is sleet in May (Scottish highlands). You win the Ridiculous Weather award for this post!
oops, THIS is where I meant to put this…. LOL
I know, it’s my personal claim to fame. but remember it was maybe 7000 feet so not unheard of. back side of Pikes peak. I can even name the year, 1971.
Your post made me laugh as I am british and can identify with much of what you said. I agree about the damp quality of the cold – I hate it! Vests,thermal socks and layering are my solutions and if all else fails a hot water bottle up your jumper! Also in summer never be without a cardigan as it may be seem warm initially but you can never rely on that!
Oh no, I sound like my mother!
Here’s a question. What about night? anybody ever wear a bed jacket? Like I said before, our house is very old and drafty and thought I don’t like a WARM room, I don’t like drafts around my shoulders or anywhere else for that matter. LOL I’m thinking of making a bed jacket. I’ve been reading all the interesting stuff about vests and stuff and I think I’m going to attempt to make one. I’d love one of wool so that will take some time to knit, unless I can find some yardage that’s light enough. Thanks for the ideas. Yardage would be the way to go for bloomers if I can find it. it would be so much faster than knitting my own.
You beat me to it, I was just thinking about a post on bedsocks — another very British protection against the cold!
From what I’ve read, I understand a bedjacket to be partly for warmth but mostly for show — a presentable garment for ladies to put on over their nighties when the doctor came to call or when they were in the hospital having babies and so on. Now that doctors no longer make house calls and hospitals try to shuttle patients in and out as fast as possible to free up beds, there’s not so much call for bedjackets… although, again, Woods of Morecambe sells them. This UK pattern company has some sweet bed jacket knitting patterns.
Aww those are cute. I’d imagine they were also worn for modesty when receiving visitors (or doctors). I’ve always preferred sleeveless nightgowns for sleeping, but the head of our bed it against a window and the drafts blow right under the blankets no matter how tightly you pull them around your shoulders. I’ve been wearing a cardigan to bed over all and it helps a lot. Maybe I’ll just keep doing that, but if I can get a wool one, I’m going to be switching to that for sure. LOL Kitty
Hi! I’ve been reading your blog for a few weeks, and I just love it! Your way with words, your creativity and your interest in vintage, WWII and literture (I too loved Dragonlance, and have studied literature at university =)).
As for staying warm, I live in northern Sweden, just south of the polar circle. Thankfully it’s not that cold (usually between -5 to -15 celsius. Hurray for the Gulf stream!), but this winter we’ve had snow from november, and the past two months the temperature’s been down to -20 celsius on a regular basis. We’ve had below freezing for 75 days now… Luckily, people up here know that it gets cold and snowy. Houses are well isolated, roofs are built with snow in mind (in southern Sweden lots of roofs have caved in due to the weight of snow this winter) and people dress accordingly. Riding my bike to work I wear wool tights and bloomers, thick knitted leg warmers, ski pants and a really warm coat that withstands wind and wet (I change into my wool skirt at work). Plus of course mittens and scarfs… Basically: I’m dressed warmer just going grocery shopping than I would have dressed for skiing before I moved up here =) Since I really don’t like being cold, I love that almost everybody up here has such a practical view on winter clothing!
The English sure seems to have a more unpractical view on cold…
My hat is off to people who cycle in serious weather!
I hear triple-glazing is also common in Sweden. *sigh* My windows are single-glazed and my curtains are billowing in the draft.
I love your comments on flimsy British clothing and how cold it gets here, it’s so true! I have a Canadian friend who says basically the same thing as you – people are prepared for the cold in Canada, they have central heating and warm coats, whereas in Britain it always seems to come as a bit of a surprise.
I never go out without a vest on until about July or August. Even if it’s just a thin cotton or microfibre one, just having something against your chest and tummy makes you so much warmer! Nothing worse than a cold draft on your stomach. Wow, I’m really making myself sound exciting here…
New Zealand has a similar situation to Britain. A changeable, maritime, often damply chilly climate (although it can be warm in the summer). If you’re happy to order Icebreaker from NZ, you might like to know about Silkbody (I have no connection to the company) which makes silk, wool and silk and wool and cotton and silk underwear and outerwear clothes. I often can’t tolerate wool next to the skin – but I live in silkbody camisoles and full length slips all year round in Wellington.
Oh wow, their stuff looks great! Will have to keep it mind for next winter… if the coupons last that long…
I was thinking, I’ve experienced that damp cold once in a while, usually in spring or fall. When it gets down to 0 degrees F/-17.8 degrees C or lower, I think I read that it can’t snow very easily cause the upper levels are so cold that they can’t hold moisture and therefore no snow.
So, that would explain the dryer/colder temps and the Damper/warmer ones. IF it’s near freezing it can still hold a lot more moisture, especially if the ground isn’t frozen.
I’ll be on the look out for a real pashmina shawl, for sure. I’ve wanted one ever since My eldest daughter gave them to her sisters as Bridesmaids gifts. I should have pouted and asked where mine was. LOL To warm cozy woolies, may we all find scads of them in all the thrift stores around. I’m cold all the time. Our house has more holes in it than swiss cheese.
SmartWool undergarments. They totally saved my butt when we were living in a house while we renovated. A 8 month project took 18 months to complete. It meant we spent an entire winter with very little heat – it was glorified camping really. It would have been impossible if we were any further north than Virginia.
Just discovered your blog, and I absolutely LOVE it, in particular your Fashion on the Ration project! Will definitely be stopping by often.
As for cold, where I live isn’t as chilly as Britain, but it does stay grey & rainy well into June & I must admit to a little wishful thinking myself. There comes a point every year when I just don’t care anymore & break out the sundresses & sandals regardless of the weather. Maybe it’s my Scottish blood coming out!
LOL, that does sound like quite a contrast. don’t forget to add a filmy wool showl to your summer wear, where you can call it a fashion statement and STILL add warmth. or What I think they used to call fascinator but was actually a shoulder shawl that was small enough to resemble the shawl on a formal gown when fastened around the shoulders.
Being 56 and never a fashionista in my best days, I can only give hints, not from personal experience but from reading and collecting pre-mid century knitting and crochet patterns. And a bit from my mom who was more 40′s fashionable that I’ll ever be fashionable in ANY era.
What I’d like to do is learn to knit well enough to knit one of your Vests in a size that would fit me from lace weight wool. I’d know I was accomplished if I ever reach that pinnacle. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and reading. I’m enjoying it. Kitty
Oh heck – I had been replying to ask whether these (http://www.sockshop.co.uk/products/ladies_1_pair_levante_plain_100_dnr_wool_stockings/index#placeholder) that you posted are actually *stockings* – as in garter belt required or tights – as in panty attached or hold ups – as in no panty but no garter belt required. I want wool garter-belt-necessary stockings….
The Levante stockings are real live stockings — they require suspenders (garters). They are a revelation.
PuggleTrouble said it – it depends what you’re used to. Not sure where in Canada she is, but I’m in Calgary and (though this year its been mild) -30C is not unusual….but it isn’t COLD to me. You just make sure you have a hat, mitts, scarf and a good, windproof coat. I don’t even bother with longjohns unless I KNOW I’ll have to be outside for longer than half an hour. Depending on how windy it is, I might wear a sweater…I might not. My coats are all wool too, none of that modern ski jacket stuff that looks ugly to me.
The coldest I have ever been in my life was in Switzerland at around +1C. FREEZING BLOODY COLD. No matter HOW many sweaters I put on. Even Christchurch NZ at +14 required a coat for me. The damp is awful awful awful!
I dream of wool tights. The day I find some plus-size ones I can afford will be a happy day indeed. Until then I’m going to try making leggings out of wool jersey.
I grew up in the American Midwest and then moved to Northern California and was surprised to find that I got cold in the winters – it wasn’t the really cold, snowy weather that I’d had before, which is honestly pretty easy to deal with; you wear layers and you have a really good winter coat, gloves, hat, scarf, and boots. Back home they take the cold seriously and all the houses, barring a few old farmhouses, are well-insulated. But here it’s, as you say about England, a damp cold which can really get in your bones. And many of the houses aren’t well-insulated and while the temperature can rise up during the day when it’s sunny, it gets quite cold at night. Basically the solution for me is layering, with layers that can be removed and then put back on. It’s hard to make coherent outfits sometimes, since it’s difficult to maintain a visual focal point – at some point during your day your outfit is way too busy or way too boring.
One other thing that helps me is a scarf – something big enough to be a shawl in a pinch but thin enough that it can be tied as a scarf or shoved in your bag, like the pashminas that were so popular a few years ago. I practically never leave the house without one in the winter, either being worn or in my bag. I can take it on and off and wear it different ways and it’s much less bulky to haul around than another sweater or jacket. Most of mine are rayon, I think, and thus machine washable – not as warm as wool maybe but warmer than you might think for how relatively thin they are.
I don’t have the same level of cold, as I live in California, but I’m down by the beach, and it gets very very damp. Plus, my house has crap insulation, so it literally will be colder and more damp inside than out. I try to keep layers on head to toe. Tights/thermals and socks, camisole or tank under all tops, heavy coat, hat and scarf/cowl to block that nasty wind that blow down the back of your neck.
Your post makes me laugh so much!! My experience has been the complete opposite of yours!
I’m British and my bf’s Canadian. We live in Canada and it’s COLD! As a pedestrian, I especially wrap up in a million layers from Novemember to May, whether is seems warm or not. I’m always cold, especially indoors. My bf works outside, so he’s a toughie. He’s the one not wearing a coat, while I have on my snowboots, longjohns, 2 sweaters, winter coat, scarf, hat gloves etc. Even inside, he’s always trying to turn the central heating down without me noticing. He’s like my own portable furnace.
Then when we went to the UK one Christmas, and he was colder than cold, right down to his bones, not being able to completely get warm for the whole of our visit. With his “I’d take my -20 over this +2 anyday…” Yeah, it was cold, but it wasn’t THAT bad. Not like in Canada….
Maybe it just depends what you’re used to…….
Definitely! Whenever my English relatives used to visit us in northern NY they would always be miserable and outraged by the cold. I think if you grow up with a certain kind of weather, it programs you so that for the rest of your life, other weather isn’t “proper” weather at all.
It’s a dark art, keeping warm here I’m afraid! I was born and bred in the South East of England and while we have it slightly milder than some parts, I do agree that most Brits keep warm by adopting the “February is practically Spring” sentiment! Thank heavens for Pringle cashmere (from various charity shops in well-to-do towns) and having an Aga in the kitchen! Haha I almost sound fancy – I’m not I promise!
Xxx
Whenever I hear the word Aga, I can’t help thinking of the priceless Posh Nosh line, “If you haven’t got an Aga…”
But I am with you 100% on thrift shopping in upscale neighborhoods! My favorite so far is Clapham North.
New York/Toronto don’t have anything on the rest of Canada! Toronto is one of our warmest cities (along with most of the BC shore)…It regularly dips down to -15 degrees celsius in the winter. I’m not sure what that is in farenheit, but I know its less than 32!!
Thanks for pointing me in the direction of Bella di Notte underwear – I have been on the hunt for some nice woolly thermals (M&S ones are disappointingly synthetic). I think your link for them, though, is actually to a purveyor of Harris Tweed; tweed underwear might be a little too exfoliating for my delicate skin!
Ha! I love my tweed, but even I wouldn’t try a tweed camisole.
Dud linkage fixed!